At the
time of the wave propagates on the surface of water in coastal areas
with different depths, the wave height, wavelength,
creepage
will also change drastically due to the combined effects of refraction
and defraksi. If a wave passes through a beach which is also a vertical
wall without depth changes then the wave will experience a reflection.
Due to the constant wave energy flux and friction with the sea floor,
then wave height (H) will rise, causing shoaling. If the wave
approaching the shore with an angled, will occur propagation velocity
difference (C) at the tops (crest) waves of two orthogonal waves are
close together, so the wave propagation will turn, there will be a
refraction. If the waves pass through the barrier will occur difference H
behind the barrier and in front of him, causing diffraction. If the
seabed is very shallow, the waves will exist for a long time not to be
broken. Wave broke some will be transferred into the current. If the
current flow is strong enough, it will be able to erode and carry
material that beach erosion will occur. If the current strength is
reduced, the material will be deposited drift causing sedimentation.
In
the surf zone or area between the shoreline to wave breaking occurs
dynamic interaction between breaking waves and currents or water and
sediment material. Moving water carrying material from one place to
another place and then erode sediment precipitation somewhere else will
give rise to shoreline change. The beach always adjust so that the
profile shape is able to destroy the incoming wave energy. The shape
adjustment is a natural response to dynamic beach against the sea shore.
If the part of the beach is eroding, which swept away the material to
be deposited in other parts quieter, such as estuaries, bays, and so on.
Thus causing sedimentation in the area.
That is the
explanation of
LITTORAL TRANSPORT ENGINEERING IS and hopefully this
article is very useful for us so with this article we would know a lot
about the Littoral Transport. Thanks Hopefully Helpful
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